Once you clear the aft bench-seat supports and the aft-facing seat, lift the whole deck over your head and rest it flat on the back of the boat (where you put all the blue painter’s tape). On my deck, that aluminum channel is just-about the center of gravity. Once you clear the support-mounts, you can move your hands to the center-support bar (aluminum) of the deck to lift. The hatch may hang-up slightly on the aft bench-seat support mounts, but the deck will clear these mounts as long as you only lift the stern-end of the deck and don’t allow the fore-end of the deck to lift out of the recess until you clear the aft bench-seat support mounts. Step-3g: Lift the stern-end of the hatch only. Do not try to lift the deck with any of the hatches still attached to the deck… you don’t want one of those opening with the deck over your head. Loosen the aft drain-scupper hose clamp and pull the drain-hose. Drop both antifreeze-overflow tanks, ensuring they do not leak into the bilge. Step-3d: Unscrew the 3 screws holding each of the two hinges to the fore hatch set-aside. I think my deck had 6-or-7 2”-inch #8 screws which I later converted to #10s. Step-3d: Pull all screws that secure the deck to the hull, located around the circumference of the engine-room deck. There are small metal clips on the struts opposite the mounting pins slide the clips up if you can’t simply pull the strut off the pins. Step-3c: Lift the fore (hinged) hatch and pull the hydraulic-assist strut off the door and deck set-aside. Pull the latch and close the door set the screws aside. My boat has a foot-peg latch that attaches to the molded-seat area and a retainer that screws to the swim-deck door. I’m not sure if this was an add-on from my boat’s original owner… basically you can’t have anything that sticks-out over the deck you’re about to pull-up. Put the tape on first, before you pull the hatches, so you don’t step in a hole: You’ll have to rest the deck on it if you’re pulling the deck by yourself, or you’ll likely hit it if two people are working to pull the deck. Step-3a: Place a couple layers of blue painter’s-tape on the high-spots of your rear-topsides above the fender-locker. Here’s a look, for those who’ve never opened a hatch! In hindsight, the simplest thing you can do is pull the deck I wasted way more time trying to figure out how not to than it took to remove/reinstall. Believe me, I tried to contort myself every way possible, and I’m not a real-fat guy. I think it’s physically impossible to pull the pumps from the deck access-hatch. Note: you do not need to pull the aft-facing seat if you wish. Be careful, though those triangle supports will mar your deck if you drop them. You may have to unscrew the aft seat from the two triangular supports first, or you may simply be able to lift the seat with the supports at once. You have to pull the rear seat-back to get the deck out Once screws are out, simply lift-up on the curved aft back-cushion to remove. There are 4-screws through the inside-wall of the fender locker that secure the aft back-cushion. Step-2a: Open the aft fender locker at the swim platform. Obviously, you only need the impellers to do a water-pump job, but if you’re going through the trouble to pull the deck, now’s the time to do all the rest of the yearly maintenance. * Nut-driver for hose-clamps (I used the shaft of one of those 6-in-1 hand-screwdrivers) * Roll of blue painter’s-tape (1” OK, 2” better) * 1/2″ breaker-bar / ratchet with 6”-extension * My tanks have primary inline fuel filters (don’t know why): 35-864572, Qty:2 Whether it would do that with 320HP behind it without shredding is for someone else to decide…įor that re-do, it took me 45-minutes from deck-out to deck back in (and I lifted/moved the deck all by myself)… here’s how: And, for the record, I had the incorrectly-installed impeller and housing in my hands, twisted the pulley the correct direction, and the impeller flopped back correctly on its own. Probably the most-important thing you can do is take photos of the old impeller BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT, just to make sure you’ve got it right. I asked my yard if they thought the impellers would straighten-out on their own, they gave me 50:50 odds. The engine room is tight with the deck in-placeĪs an aside (FYI), I’ve shredded impellers before because I twisted them backwards during installation.
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